Discover Foods Distinctly, Deliciously New York

If change is the only constant, New York’s food scene proves it deliciously true. In this city, food never stands still.

New York thrives on reinvention — its kitchens, markets, and menus in perpetual motion, stirred by the people and ideas that pour in from around the globe.

New York’s culinary culture is both rooted and restless: grounded in tradition, yet always hungry for what’s next. Ingredients and influences arrive daily, finding their way into restaurant kitchens, neighborhood groceries and corner markets. Yesterday’s curiosities — like dragon fruit or jalapeños — are today’s staples.

Lately, the city’s palate has tilted toward Asia, with hot pot and pho drawing diners of all backgrounds into specialty markets once considered niche. Mediterranean and Middle Eastern flavors are also taking center stage, expanding beyond Greek and Lebanese to embrace Turkish, Persian, and Syrian inspirations.

And as New Yorkers demand food that reflects their values and lifestyles — organic, vegan, gluten-free, high-protein, local — restaurants and retailers are keeping pace. The farm-to-table and greenmarket movements have become more than trends; they’re now essential to the city’s definition of freshness and transparency.

In New York, food evolves as fast as the neighborhoods themselves. Every shift in taste, culture, and community brings a chance to discover something new — something distinctly, deliciously New York.

BUSHWICK FOODTOWN
Feeding the Masses in NYC

Bushwick is a community in the throes of a revival. A neighborhood once synonymous with urban decline has turned around, and new residential and commercial properties are rising, and existing infrastructure has seen improvement.

To feed a multifaceted community like Bushwick requires a lot of thought, not only because of shopper requirements, but also because commercial properties tend to be relatively small, so 70,000 square foot supermarkets are not easy to locate. Small, well-run supermarkets are important because many consumers don’t own cars and rely on mass transit and shoe leather to get around. Enter the Bushwick Foodtown, which operates directly under an elevated subway line.

Foodtown in Bushwick has operated for six years under its current ownership. Dan Wodzenski, head of operations and merchandising, says the building was purchased in 2019, and the new owners did a major renovation before opening.

The original store had a food court in front, but that didn’t suit new ownership. The renovation placed an emphasis on perishables and related departments. The front and back were opened up to create a longer presentation of perishables, service department and grocery.

“The store is about 15,000 square feet in size, with about 10% dedicated to produce,” Wodzenski says.

During an October store visit, an upfront combination table and carton display mixed early and late season produce, including decorative ears of corn, plums and peaches as an adjunct to the main display of tomatoes, bulk apples in tote bags for convenient carry out, avocado and tomatoes. The linear department had rows of floor dry fixtures operating perpendicular to a long cold case down the store wall, which offered bagged and clamshell salads.

Bushwick is home to many large families, so their needs became an important point of demand. Yet the store also had to accommodate young people moving into the neighborhood, many single professionals who favor convenience food.

“We had to challenge ourselves,” Wodzenski says, “to serve the traditional family customers and the young single professionals.”

The introductory floor display had its complement just behind in another presentation of tomatoes and avocados, with bagged and clamshell salads adjacent in the cold case. Multiple varieties of bulk apples and pears occupied the next table display with whole pineapples on the end cap. The store displayed citrus along with mangos and persimmons.

Facing was the main table display of Latino specialties, including plantains and root vegetables. The associated endcap was the main banana display. Next, potatoes, onions and garlic were arrayed next to a variety of squash and a few coconuts. Berries and grapes occupied endcap refrigerated cases.

The cold case featured an extensive selection of organic fruit, vegetables and herbs.

The supermarket also includes a diverse greens assortment with items, such as bunch carrots and asparagus. Other vegetables included heads of cauliflower, corn, broccoli, cabbage, eggplant, squash, pepper and scallions among other commodities.

Fresh-cuts are a critical part of the produce departments in New York, where a lot of the kitchens and refrigerators are small. So, in the midst of the cold case, Foodtown offers overwrapped trays of fresh-cut broccoli heads, cut cauliflower and sliced zucchini, yellow squash and peppers. Celery and carrot spears were nearby, individually provided and in combination. Overwrapped veggies include asparagus, Brussels sprouts and okra. Then diced veggie combinations include onions and peppers, as well as carrots, onions and celery and mixed peppers. The display also offered chopped white and red onions.

As for fresh-cut fruit, the Bushwick Foodtown stocked everything from cups to trays in an on-the-floor refrigerated case. Mango, pineapple, watermelon, honeydew melon and cantaloupe were chunked, mixed fruit was tubbed and trays accommodated sliced melon and kiwi. The salad lineup includes both bagged and clamshell, positioned near the store entrance in a relatively large display for the convenience of grab-and-go shoppers.

Fact File

Foodtown of Bushwick
1291 Broadway, Brooklyn, NY 11221
718-443-7913
www.foodtown.com/stores/foodtown-of-bushwick

FANDOQ
Serving a Taste of Persia

Cuisines with roots in the Middle East have become increasingly popular in the New York metro region for a variety of reasons; however, a Persian menu is less well known but has its own particular charms.

FandoQ is a Persian restaurant that operates in Garden City, a community that’s part of Long Island’s Nassau County. It’s adjacent to the Roosevelt Field mall and a retail landscape that includes everything from Neiman Marcus to Costco to Whole Foods Market to Orvis to Nordstrom Rack, as well as lots of restaurants.

Although unique, Persian cuisine draws influences from many sources, but the food tradition and the underlying culture center on modern-day Iran.

“Persian cuisine is something between Indian, which is spice-heavy, and Mediterranean, which, while not bland, is less spice-heavy,” says Sam Ghafari, FandoQ manager. “We use different spice notes, not as intense or Indian or Pakistani food. Persian food is inspired by all the cultures around Iran, including Afghan, as well.”

Among Persian dishes on the FandoQ menu are Shirazi Salad made with tomatoes, cucumbers and onion, complemented by a lemon dressing. The menu also offers Ghorme Sabzi, a Persian herb stew with kidney beans and beef cubes. Considered the national dish of Iran, the Persian herb stew traditionally consists of sautéed herbs, such as parsley, cilantro and fenugreek, slow-cooked with meat, often beef or lamb, kidney beans and, the key ingredient, dried Persian limes, but it has regional variations.

Broadening its menu regionally, FandoQ includes its own take on Greek salad with fresh lettuce, sliced cucumbers, tomatoes, green bell pepper, red onion, olives, feta cheese and vinaigrette dressing, as well as Tabbouleh Salad, with parsley, mint, tomato, bulgur wheat, finely chopped vegetables and dressing.

Items that might be associated with other cuisines also find their way into FandoQ’s bill of fare, including samosas and Grape Leaves Dolmeh.

FandoQ vegetarian fare includes a Falafel Platter served with hummus, tahini sauce and pickles; Sautéed Vegetable Platter with eggplant, zucchini, peppers, onions and mushroom topped off by house-made tomato sauce; and Vegetable Kebab with grilled eggplant, zucchini, peppers and onions, mushrooms and plum tomato. Falafel is also available as an appetizer, as is the chef special Kashk-E-Bademjan, which consists of cooked eggplant with curd, fried mint, garlic, onion and walnuts.

“Rice is very big in Persian cuisine, but so are vegetables,” Ghafari says. “We use a lot of tomatoes, eggplant and green peppers. While not as heavy as Italian cuisine, we do use garlic, which varies in dishes because certain areas use some and other areas don’t use garlic.”

Rice is an important element on the FandoQ menu and served up in an intriguing variety. In addition to brown and white rice, the restaurant offers Albalo Polo, a sour cherry rice; Zereshk Polo; Persian Barberries Rice; and Baghali Polo, rice with dill and fava beans.

Fact File

FandoQ
1610 Old Country Road, Westbury, NY 11590
516-279-4551
www.fandoqny.com

LORING PLACE
Enjoy the Tastes of the Season

When it opened in December 2016, Loring Place had an immediate connection to the neighborhood around its Greenwich Village location because its founder, Chef Dan Kluger, began his restaurant career as a maître d’ at nearby Union Square Cafe.

That job introduced Kluger to the Union Square Greenmarket, which he has now frequented for more than 20 years. The Greenmarket has been an inspiration for Loring Place, operating on West Eighth Street, where the seasonal menu builds on the bounty provided by the Greenmarket growers.

Joe Ramos, Loring Place general manager, says the restaurant is positioned both as a neighborhood gathering place and a destination for New Yorkers who want to enjoy the unique fare and local ambience.

“We have many guests who come regularly for lunch, brunch or dinner,” Ramos says. “I think our menu is creative, that changes with each season, but still has elements consistent all year-round. Since opening, we’ve heavily utilized the Greenmarket, local farms and local spirits to keep with our ethos, being local and sustainable when possible.”

“We aim to support as many farms as we can at the Greenmarket, many of which chef [Kluger] has had relationships with for a very long time,” Ramos says. “We definitely focus on seasonality, with the menu changing with what the seasons bring, but, more importantly, with the produce that’s at its peak during that time.”

The restaurant also accommodates diners with allergies, aversions and specific diets.

How Loring Place uses produce in the dishes makes the restaurant unique. Even on the more limited lunch menu, fruit and vegetables are prominent elements in delivering flavor. For example, the snacks and small plates elements of a recent menu included Marinated Olives with citrus and chilies; Butternut Fries in a lemon-parmesan dressing; Baked Ricotta with Kabocha squash, chilies, mint and grilled sourdough; and Tuna Crudo with citrus, chilies and radishes.

The salads and seasonal vegetables included a Shaved Brussels Sprouts Salad with olives, almonds, green apple vinaigrette and manchego; Roasted Beets Salad with ginger, orange, toasted cashews and crispy sunchokes; and Wood Grilled Broccoli Salad with orange, pistachios and mint. Lunch salads included Chicken Paillard with butternut squash, pickled pears and fennel vinaigrette.

Loring Place defies pizza orthodoxy with a hand-milled, whole wheat Date Pizza that features mozzarella, bacon, chiles and radicchio.

Although many of the same dishes appear on both the dinner and lunch menu, some items are evening-only, recently, including Grilled Acorn Squash with cider glaze and housemade granola; and Celery Root Salad with Asian pear, fennel, candied walnuts and lemon among the snacks and small plates. Among the large plates for dinner were Spice Roasted Cauliflower with fennel, apple and preserved lemon; and Maple Glazed Chicken Breast with carrots, parsnips and cranberries.

The role of fruits and vegetables is central to what makes Loring Place unique, and the connections to the neighborhood and the Greenmarket give the restaurant a particular authenticity. Combine that with a warm, inviting interior tucked into a historic 1848 building, and you have an eatery that courts visitation.

Fact File

Loring Place
21 W. Eighth St., New York, NY 10011
212-388-1831
www.loringplacenyc.com

99 RANCH
Catering to Asian Shoppers

Its parent company is located on the West Coast, but 99 Ranch made a critical move out East this year by opening a supermarket on Main Street in Flushing, NY, one of the most populous Asian neighborhoods in the United States.

The supermarket is the 64th in a chain operated by Tawa Supermarket, Buena Park, CA, across 11 states, all focusing on Asian foods. The Flushing store, the company’s first in New York City, includes signage in English and Chinese as part of its positioning and commitment to authenticity and shopping ease for all customers.

According to the Mayor’s Office of Immigrant Affairs in New York, Flushing has the largest concentration of Chinese immigrants in the city. Twice as many Chinese immigrants live in Flushing than in Manhattan’s Chinatown. From the broader perspective, Queens, the borough where Flushing 99 Ranch operates, has the largest population of Asian immigrants in New York.

“The Flushing store features a pan-Asian assortment that reflects the diversity and tastes of the local community,” Alice Chen, chief executive of 99 Ranch, tells Produce Business. “Our produce department highlights seasonal selections that bring freshness and authenticity to everyday meals.

“This fall, for example, we’re featuring sweet and crisp Korean and Chinese pears, along with a rotating variety of Asian greens, melons and fruits. By focusing on quality, seasonality, and cultural relevance, we aim to make 99 Ranch Market a place where the community can experience the best of Asian flavors, year-round.”

On entering the store, consumers are immediately introduced to the store’s produce assortment in case displays in the aisle and slant tables adjacent. On the day of a store visit, pineapples were featured in the opening floor case display along with citrus, honeydew melons, mini red pomelos and dragon fruit. Across the sales floor were a range of Asian specialties, such as, for example, White Beech mushrooms. The large bean sprout presentation includes both packaged and bulk product.

Chen says 99 Ranch saw Flushing as a neighborhood where the company could offer shoppers a distinct and inviting shopping experience.

“Flushing has long been one of the most vibrant and culturally rich neighborhoods in New York City,” she says, “a true hub of Asian cuisine and community. As we continue to expand our footprint on the East Coast, opening our first store in New York City marks an exciting milestone for 99 Ranch Market. We saw a unique opportunity to serve this dynamic neighborhood with an elevated supermarket experience that brings together authenticity, freshness, and cultural connection. The timing felt right to introduce a destination that celebrates Flushing’s diversity and offers a taste of Asia that feels both local and inspiring.”

Chen says the Flushing store represents an elevated format for 99 Ranch Market, a two-level concept that combines a full-service supermarket on the upper level with a food hall below.

From live seafood and fresh produce to ready-to-eat meals, this location brings together the best of what 99 Ranch Market offers, with a strong focus on quality, convenience and variety.

“Its modern design and urban layout reflect how the brand continues to evolve to meet the lifestyle and expectations of New York City shoppers, while staying true to its roots in authentic Asian food culture,” she says.

The two-story, 37,000-square-foot store includes a 22,000-square-foot Market Floor with more than 10,000 hand-selected SKUs across pantry, frozen, and premium meats, in addition to produce and live seafood. In-store services include complimentary fish frying and live crab/lobster steaming, self-checkout, members-only promotions, and 1% back in loyalty points via the 99 Ranch Super Rewards program.

The 15,000 square feet EAT UP Food Court occupies an underground space for food vendors offering fare from dim sum and boba tea to Vietnamese pho, Taiwanese street food and sushi.

Fact File

99 Ranch
37-11 Main St., Flushing, NY 11354
718-571-8899
www.99ranch.com

PORTOKALI GOURMET MARKET
Surrounding Shoppers With Produce in Brooklyn

Portokali Gourmet Market, in Brooklyn’s Sheepshead Bay neighborhood, sits on a busy street corner in a section of New York that is among the city’s most dynamic.

The community still has significant, long-established Italian and Jewish populations, as well as the large Russian population in adjacent Brighton Beach. However, the neighborhood today includes Latino groups of various backgrounds, as well as large numbers of residents from Ukraine, Georgia and parts of eastern Europe, as well as Asia, with a significant number of residents hailing from the Middle East.

Portokali serves them all, and it does so 24 hours a day.

“It started as a small store, but kept expanding until it got the entire corner,” says staffer Ayten Avci.

The corner is on a busy commercial strip where East 18 Street hits Sheepshead Bay Road, and the first thing a customer or passerby would notice is the abundant display of fruits and vegetables outside the store, lining its exterior walls.

Over the slant table displays were banners identifying each commodity in large, clear lettering, catching consumer attention and prompting shopping. Across the sidewalk from the larger presentation along the store’s wall were curbside table displays. Anyone walking down the street was surrounded by fresh produce.

Cut fruit occupied an ice table on the other side of the store entrance, alongside some half-Hami melons, a commodity associated with the Xinjiang region of China.

Although it shares space with other departments, produce was abundant inside Portokali as well. The store set much of the produce assortment to satisfy the widest range of shoppers, so more tomato and pepper displays were mounted inside across from a cold case, including squash, carrots, tray-wrapped corn ears, Brussels sprouts and asparagus, as well as both packaged and bulk mushrooms, ranging from white to oyster.

Next to that case was a large presentation of greens along with items, such as radishes and scallions, with organic items mixed into the display, all neatly merchandised. Indeed, organic items popped up in displays across the produce department.

Several specialty items were offered alongside the more mainstream products, including cubanelle peppers, runner beans, calabaza and cranberry beans, as well as commodities that have become more or less mainstream in New York, such as dragon fruit and chayote.

While Portokali offers a rather wide variety of produce, it does so in a limited space shared with other departments. As such, the operation is labor-intensive, and workers remain busy refreshing displays that are consistently well-maintained.

With some strong merchandising, a lot of core products and accompanying items from various food traditions that are in demand, Portokali serves a neighborhood of varied tastes and preferences, but an ongoing interest in fresh food.

Fact File

Portokali
1509 Sheepshead Bay Road, Brooklyn, NY 11235
718-332-5900
www.facebook.com/PortokaliGourmetMarket/

THE BAY CAFE
Fresh, Kosher and a Surprise

The Bay Cafe bills itself as having the best Italian food in Manhattan Beach, but there is a twist — it’s kosher.

And that’s not the only twist. Although the cuisine is Italian at its core, the menu incorporates a variety of different influences, such as seasonal food.

A lot of what makes The Bay Cafe unique is based on where it operates. Manhattan Beach is one in a string of Brooklyn sea and bayside communities. It’s a neighborhood with a mix of residents and food from Eastern European, Latino and other backgrounds, and Brighton Beach, famous for its Russian eateries. A significant part of the population consists of Jewish residents who hail from different parts of the world and different food traditions.

“We take from Ashkenazi, Sephardic and Russian traditions,” says Meyer, Bay Cafe restaurant manager, who didn’t offer his last name, referring to Jewish cultures as they evolved in Eastern and Central Europe, Iberia and the eastern Mediterranean, and Russia. The influences on the menu are even broader, even including Pao de Queijo, Brazilian cheese bread. A large Orthodox Jewish population in Brazil has a long connection with New York.

The influences don’t end there, as the dessert menu includes churros, while the appetizer menu offers tiradito de tuna, a dish with a Peruvian pedigree.

Outside of the Italian dishes, other Mediterranean cuisines influence the Bay Cafe menu. Greek Salad with beefsteak tomatoes, peppers, red onion, and kalamata olives has its place on the menu, as does Crispy Halloumi Salad, with roots in Cyprus, combining mixed greens, cherry tomatoes, cucumber and caramelized onions.

In another example of the Bay Cafe’s willingness to incorporate food trends as they’ve developed in New York, there’s an Asian Chopped Salad with roasted red and golden beets, sliced pears, mixed greens, feta cheese and toasted walnuts.

Still, The Bay Cafe’s menu is based on Italian cuisine, so a favorite, such as Penne Ala Vodka and Wild Mushroom Risotto, are right at home. Yet, the menu makes room for consumers who are fans of vegetable-based entrees, as is the case with Eggplant Parmesan, and those who are looking for healthier variations on traditional cooking, in the case of Spaghetti Squash Medley, with the requisite spaghetti squash, sautéed vegetables, olives, basil and feta cheese.

Pizza is a house specialty, and variations include Truffle Mushroom Pizza and Olive Za’atar Pizza, using Middle Eastern za’atar spice, which is a blend of thyme, marjoram, oregano, toasted sesame seeds and sumac.

Side dishes are vegetables-heavy at the Bay Cafe and include Sautéed Spinach and Broccoli, Grilled Vegetables and Roasted Baby Potatoes. There are also gluten-free items noted on the menu.

The story of the Bay Cafe begins with fresh flavors, and the restaurant positions itself as the laid-back place that constantly refreshes and revitalizes the menu, bringing in new flavors, items, and dishes that make for a cosmopolitan eating experience.

Fact File

The Bay Cafe
2 Neptune Ave., Brooklyn, NY 11235
347-554-8811
www.thebaycafebk.com

UNION SQUARE GREENMARKET
Bringing Fresh Produce to the City

The Union Square Greenmarket is a long-established institution that connects urbanites with the growers who raise their food in the New York City region.

The open-air market, with a festival-like setting of little stalls and sprawling display spaces, operates year-round under the auspices of GrowNYC, an environmental nonprofit organization, although not all vendors participate all year. The market operates every Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday in the north and west plazas of Manhattan’s Union Square Park.

Union Square symbolically marks the changeover from Manhattan to Greenwich Village. South of the park, the neighborhood switches from a commercial geography to a more residential one, although both areas are mixed in their composition. The vicinity has historically had limited access to fresh perishables, although that has changed over time, with more independent supermarkets and local chains, such as Morton Williams, popping up nearby, as well as major chain operators, including Whole Foods Market, Trader Joe’s and Wegmans.

Yet, the Greenmarket remains an institution embraced by New Yorkers, and while produce has a dominant place in the operation, it isn’t alone. The range of goods offered by the 140 regional sellers range from pastry to cider to jams to flowers to seafood to woolen goods.

Still, produce is the market’s strength. For example, Van Houten Farms of Orangeville, PA, which also operates a Pearl River, NY, garden center, offers a wide range of seasonal and other produce, as well as plants, in one of the larger market spaces. It started at Union Square in 1976, since the institution’s founding.

Although it offers items, such as potatoes, that could keep it in operation over the winter, Van Houten Farms is focused on the seasonal aspect of its business at Union Square, says Passang Tenzin, the Greenmarket manager for the farm. The grower remains in the market until Christmas, then shuts down for the season.

The beginning of Van Houten Farms Greenmarket season opens in March with flowers and spring produce, and closes its Union Square year with Christmas trees and related decorative items. In the autumn, the variety of produce was considerable with fresh cauliflower, mixed peppers, cabbage, purple broccoli and beefsteak tomatoes and pumpkins prominent, alongside a range of flowering plants.

The Greenmarket has been an important part of Shushan Valley Hydro Farms’ business, says Erin Murphy, who helps run the market operation for the Shushan Valley, NY, grower. “They’ve been coming here for 20 plus years.”

The operation offers its core tomato product line — beefsteak, vine cluster, cherry — all year long. The grower also cultivates cucumbers, herbs and some greens.

The Union Square Greenmarket is best known for the efforts by GrowNYC to bring fresh regional produce, perishables and artisan products to Big Apple consumers. Today, GrowNY operates more than 45 greenmarkets throughout New York’s five boroughs.

Fact File

Union Square Greenmarket
Union Square Park, Union Square West and East 17th St., New York, NY 10003
212-788-7900
www.grownyc.org/greenmarket/manhattan-union-square-m

URBAN VEGAN ROOTS
Healthy Eating That’s Not Boring

Urban Vegan Roots bills itself as a purveyor of globally inspired vegan dishes, with a bold New York attitude in the heart of Astoria, NY, which is fitting.

Astoria is known for its vibrant Greek community, but it has tremendous diversity and a dynamic social environment. For one thing, the community, which borders Long Island City, gets contributions from long-established Black and Latino residents and includes a significant Brazilian presence. Irish, Italian and Middle Eastern residents contribute as well. The community also has a large contingent of young professionals.

And Astoria is a community with food at heart. From the latest trendy eateries to traditional Greek tavernas, Astoria has had a dynamic nightlife for generations, much of it centered on Steinway Street and Broadway, but spilling across the community.

Urban Vegan Roots is part of today’s Astoria food scene. The restaurant creates a space where community, creativity and compassion come together over flavorful, house-made fare — from small plates to hearty entrees and all-day brunch. The decor is engaging, featuring art portraits of musicians and celebrities, a spray of graffiti graphics and a bandstand where players regularly entertain diners.

The restaurant encourages potential diners to consider it for parties and community gathering, but is just as happy with folks who drop by for a cocktail or coffee as they work, study or just take a break.

Menu influences are international and offer a mix of flavors and approaches to preparation. Among small plate items, Mushroom Empanadas include shiitake and cremini mushrooms, Numu plant-based mozzarella, and avocado salsa verde with Parm, a term for non-dairy Parmesan cheese food, while the Good Bunny Roasted Carrots are awash in chile agave glaze, toasted pumpkin seed, tahini, lemon, maple and parsley.

Dishes can be veggie variations on popular cuisine, as in the case of the Buffalo Soldier cauliflower bites with ranch dressing and scallions, or the Coconut Breaded Konjac Shrimp (konjac being made from a Southeast Asian root vegetable), served with arugula, chile aioli, avocado salsa verde and pico.

Under the heading Plates, the menu includes main dishes, such as I Ain’t No Chicken avocado ranch salad with kale, romaine, southern fried seitan, avocado, tomato, garlic croutons, Parm and ranch dressing; and Wild Style Zucchini Scallopini featuring lightly breaded zucchini, lemon caper sauce with mixed mushrooms, mashed potatoes and parsley.

Urban Vegan prides itself on having brunch all day, with The Big Brando Breakfast Burrito stuffed with turmeric rice, black beans, marinated tofu, Numu mozzarella, avocado, pico, flour tortilla and chile aioli; and the Egg Mcnuthin’ consisting of tofu, avocado, hollandaise, shiitake bacon, arugula, onion and kala namak, a black rock salt, along with housemade bread.

Bottom line: Urban Vegan Roots doesn’t just emphasize healthy eating, but enjoying it as well.

Fact File

Urban Vegan Roots
34-47 31st St., Astoria, NY 11106
516-490-6895
www.urbanveganroots.com